Chinooks need a large fat reserve for their long-distance migration. That translates into a pronounced, buttery, rich taste. The oily chinook flesh is softer than that of other wild salmon species. Except for some white-meat strains of chinook, the flesh is almost always red, never pink. White king is a strain with pale meat, not to be confused with “pale kings,” which are sexually mature fish. Though light in color, the white king’s flavor is as rich as the more deeply colored chinooks.